A PLAGUE OF SOMMELIERS
I've just about had it with the general invasion of all commentary on wine that has been perpetrated by sommeliers. Maybe it's because people are going out to restaurants that employ this odd breed of waiter/corkscrew-slinger: the public is just more familiar with that relationship, and as a result, sommeliers have more say, in more outlets, than before. Of course, it always degenerates into the same thing: food pairings. Is anything more depressing than wine-and-food pairings? I was heartened not too long ago when I found out that Eric Ripert, chef at Le Bernardin, the best restaurant in New York, drinks red Bordeaux with everything. Huzzah, Eric! Screw pairings. I've been advocating that people do this for quite some time, find something they like and drink it with everything they eat. Makes life so much simpler.
I don't dislike sommeliers--for sure, I respect greatly the ones who manage massive wine programs at top-level restaurants--I'd just like to see their position as the definitve authorities on all things vinous dialed back a few notches. The drinking public needs to obtain perspective on wine from some other sources.
I've just about had it with the general invasion of all commentary on wine that has been perpetrated by sommeliers. Maybe it's because people are going out to restaurants that employ this odd breed of waiter/corkscrew-slinger: the public is just more familiar with that relationship, and as a result, sommeliers have more say, in more outlets, than before. Of course, it always degenerates into the same thing: food pairings. Is anything more depressing than wine-and-food pairings? I was heartened not too long ago when I found out that Eric Ripert, chef at Le Bernardin, the best restaurant in New York, drinks red Bordeaux with everything. Huzzah, Eric! Screw pairings. I've been advocating that people do this for quite some time, find something they like and drink it with everything they eat. Makes life so much simpler.
I don't dislike sommeliers--for sure, I respect greatly the ones who manage massive wine programs at top-level restaurants--I'd just like to see their position as the definitve authorities on all things vinous dialed back a few notches. The drinking public needs to obtain perspective on wine from some other sources.
